Tips and Tricks from Susan

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Refinishing Blinds

What do you do when your blinds work great but are just the wrong color? It’s not like they wear out! You’ll love the new finish I got on my sister, Karen’s blinds this summer when I transformed her blinds from dusty rose to almond…

Remember, my philosophy is “If it doesn’t walk, you can paint it!” I’ve spray painted several blinds and they’ve all turned out great. You’d have to look pretty close and scrutinize to tell that they weren’t manufactured that color. What about the cords? I will allow some light spray to go on them. In most cases, blinds aren’t lowered and raised anyway, just tilted, so the mechanism inside is not affected Let this be your guide… if you hate the color so much on your blind now that anything is an improvement, then I’d say go for it!

Materials
Can(s) of spray paint. They all easily cover metal and are found in all home improvement stores. Because there is no wear and tear on the blinds, even inexpensive spray paints will do. Be sure to allow lots of ventilation. How many cans you use depends on the size of the blinds and the new color. A small blind will take a full can. A personal note: Coverage, it probably will have to take a few separate sprays to fully cover the color. Wait for paint to dry and do 2-3 light coats before attempting to cover all at once with a heavy coat of paint. Tip: Start spraying on the underside that you don’t see for practice.

How To
1. Clean blinds. It is easier and very economical to drop them off to be cleaned. Otherwise, use TSP solution to wash slats and rinse.
2. Hang blinds outside or in the garage where excess spray will not go onto other surface, or tape newspaper all around the glass and area to be sprayed. It’s amazing how far spray paint can float in the air so make sure a whole area is covered. (My sister was refinishing her room anyway so we just had to cover the glass. My sister-in-law Carmen hung her blinds from a tree!)
3. tilt blinds slightly and work in a back and for the manner, lightly spraying the slats. Do not overspray as the paint will start to drip. From time to time hold can upside down and spray onto a piece of paper to keep the nozzle clear.
4. Tilt blinds to the back and spray other side. Wait awhile and then re-spray front side again. Continue the process until the blinds are refinished. Voila!
When you’ve tried your project we really want to see a picture and tell us your story.

 
  Long draperies are the in look right now and one thing that drives the best sewers crazy is the unpredictability of having a curtain turn out straight, even when the measuring, cutting, and sewing have been straight. Non-sewers just assume they did something wrong. In both cases, it probably had nothing to do with the procedures I just mentioned. The following information contains one of several tips I'll be passing on the next while.

Why is it that you can do all these things correctly and have the drape turn out a bit crooked here and there? It's because every time you handle the fabric there is the potential for distortion: ironing, measuring hems, stitching, all play a major role in affecting the final outcome. It's a wonder a curtain ever turns out straight!!
   
How to Make a Straight Drape: Choosing Fabric
The type of fabric you choose will affect how it hangs and how you handle it when sewing:
- Polyester/Cotton blends are most often used in decor fabrics. You get the strength of polyester, with the soft draping of a natural fabric. (Usually my favorite fabric.)
- Sheers and semi-sheers are really in but are just the worst to sew with. (I still use the fabric when it gives me just the look I want). You might want to change your needle or use a ball point needle if you find it catching in the fabric. Hold the fabric as firmly on either side of the machine needle when stitching to help prevent puckering. I'm not at all a fan of fusible webbing, but if your hems just are not looking right, consider using it instead of sewing a hem. Try sewing first though.
- 100% polyester fabrics: I've used some that looked just like silk and loved it; other, heavier polyesters just didn't hang as well. Check with a store clerk when purchasing.
 
   
How to Make a Straight Drape: Stitching
If you have to stitch panels of fabric together for a drape, use a basting length stitch. Every time a needle goes into the fabric, there is a bit of distortion. If your needle enters half the number of times as you would normally stitch, it cuts down on the "tightening" effect considerably.

When stitching, hold the fabric lightly at either end of the sewing needle as it goes through. This will also help cut down on "puckering".

When stitching hems, use a blind stitch. If you're not familiar with how to use this setting on your machine, get a friend to show you how or visit your local sewing retailer who carries your brand of machine. Practice on some scrap pieces of fabric.
 
   
How to Make a Straight Drape: hems
Sew bottom hem, then side hems first. (The opposite of garment sewing where you stitch hems last). You finish the work on top last, e.g. grommet drapes, tab style, whatever it is! The bulk of the distortion, or error, if any, will take place during bottom hems, and stitching up the sides. REMEMBER, every time your needle goes through the fabric, a slight bit of distortion takes place, no matter what you do to avoid it. It's especially noticeable on sheer fabrics.
 
   
Perfect Pillows
Don’t' let your pillows have that "homemade" look. The biggest mistake people make is to cut the fabric out a little larger than the pillow size.

1. If the pillow form is 18", cut the fabric 18" - no extra fabric for seam allowances or ease.
2. Next, slightly round the corners when you cut out the fabric, even for a square pillow. The fill never goes into the corners very well anyway.
3. Use a pillow form rather than loose fill if you can.
4. Seam allowances are usually 1/2".

Suggested resources: A great little book for pillow procedures and ideas, "Couture Cushions", available at The Decor Store.
 
   
What's hot for windows?
Long Draperies are in again! Tab styles, pinch pleat, but especially the deco grommet look has propelled their popularity. (See a picture in Classes: Easy Window Coverings.)

Which fullness is right for your project? A heavy look isn't in nowadays. 1 1/2x to 2x fullness is a good range. If your drape will be open most of the time then 1 1/2 x fullness is good. If it will be closed most of the time, you might want to consider 2x fullness.

How to calculate: Take your finished width measurement and multiply by fullness. The finished width is the width of your window, plus the number of inches past the window you want to go.

The Professionals Guide to Perfect Window Coverings is a great book for ideas.

Suggested resources: Professional Decor Grommets (not available in many retail stores) are available at The Decor Store, "60 Minute Makeovers". . . has a great section, "Decor Sewing 101" which has essential professional tips to make sure that your drapes hang properly, and straight! Also available at The Decor Store.